There are nights in which the sabeneros (cowboys) of Guanacaste, Costa Rica inhabit both a real and symbolic landscape—the constrained world of the rondel (bull ring) and all that dwells in the arena.

The rondel dilutes landscape to its some of its most fraught constituent parts: human interaction with wildness and the symbiotic relations between humans and the animals who evolved into domestication by human intervention. The rondel's spectacle is complex—it describes human interactions with those animals domesticated and not domesticated; cruelties accompanying the evolution into domestication; and the likelihood that a landscape or its inhabitants might take a human life without malice, but as a matter of course.

It is easy to condemn an event like this from urbane American perches. Understand the peril in doing so. The sabeneros and their bull-riding represent an important, traditional cultural phenomena in a part of the world with deep genrational ties to small-scale ranching—the antithesis of the American cattle industry. In the rondel there is pride of place and culture wedded to the ring, and to the social roles that landscapes play for Costa Ricans, far different from the historic American understanding of its own landscape through the lens of Manifest Destiny.

In considering such a landscape as the rondel provides the difficulty of achieving symbiosis between man and nature is brought front and center. The rondel illustrates our species' central paradox: Landscapes, while more powerful than any individual human inhabitant, readily suffer the ability to be influenced, or changed to the point of destruction, by the aggregate of human actions and our species’ profligate use of fossil fuels.



The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica) - Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas...
Sabaneros, Costa Rican cowboys, ride & rope at small local rodeos called montaderas during the Fiestas Patronales every winter in Guanacaste province. Astride their Criollo horses sabaneros figure heavily in the Costa Rican national identity. Their skill on horseback is the legacy of more than 100 years of cattle ranching in Guanacaste and their fearlessness astride and in front of an agitated bull is often fortified with Cerveza Pilsen at the montaderas, even as death in the ring is a real possibility. Since 2003 more than seventeen bull riders and many dozens of improvizados, local jackleg rodeo clowns, have been killed in the ring. Santa Cruz Costa Rica

The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica)

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J. Matt
Photographer/Writer/Reporter based in Honolulu
Public Project
The Sabeneros of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste (Costa Rica)
Copyright J. Matt 2024
Date of Work Dec 1969 - Dec 1969
Updated May 2023
Topics Agriculture, Animals, Art, Black and White, Conceptual, Editorial, Fine Art, International Stories, Journalism, Landscape, Latin America, Nature, Personal Projects, Photography, Photojournalism, Reportage
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