Carolina Arantes

Holy Cow is a Story about who and how the meat we eat today is produced. As one steak in four is from Brazil, the meat exportation business is a crucial industry regarding environmental and alimentary issues today. 

Having been – for more than a thousand years a sacred animal in Hinduism, the Zebu has its cult in a lively capitalist occidental country, being admired, respected, and studied as one of the most significant commodities of Brazilian international commerce. Brought to Brazil in the 19th century, it has adapted to the geography in such a way that in 2012, Brazil overtook the US and became the largest exporter of beef in the world. 

Since then, records have been a common celebration for an industry in great ascension. Last year, the Brazilian meat market turned a record with US$9,75 billion income over 2,25 million tons of meat exported. The growing market is also due to the arrival of China as its new biggest client. After a short crisis in pork production, China started importing Brazilian red meat, a new alimentary habit touching only 2% of the Chinese population, which means 50% of Brazilian meat exportation. 

To feed this important commerce, the farmers’ lobby pushes negotiations with the Government to duplicate the Brazilian herd in the next decade. This could mean passing from 235 million to 400 million animals. In the last 8 years, Brazil's herd has raised 20 million animals already. These figures are only possible due to the genetic development of the breed in the use of extremely controlled artificial insemination to get to the perfect animal. The origin of the seeds and that of the eggs is studied upstream. 

An animal of this type will nevertheless be a supplier of genetic material and a father of 600 thousand calves destined for slaughterhouses. Some are sold for $ 1 million and are cloned to keep their genetic value alive. This powerful industry is one of the biggest in energy expenditure and environmental exploitation: only one animal consumes 60 litres of water daily. Besides water, a great demand in agriculture for food, fuel, and electricity for transport and refrigeration, as well as the direct impact of animal nature, makes this business one of the most connected to environmental issues. 

Cattle ranching was responsible for 23% of Greenhouse gas worldwide spread in 2022. The Amazonian deforestation has been rising proportionally to the market’s income: 2 million hectares were deforested only for cattle in the same year. Environmental issues don’t seem to be an obstacle for the meat industry. Through genetic development and crossings, the rich Brazilian farmers are already preparing the next animals to resist world climate change. While crossing and breeding, farmers aim to have animals slaughtered earlier and adapt to rainy and dry, intense weather conditions. 

Holy Cow followed this Brazilian historical business for 8 years, from the cattle importation from India until the arrival of the Chinese market today, passing through environmental issues, genetics business, power, and the ranching ambience of those who decide it all. Holy Cow aims to reveal the history and ambience of the powerful Brazilian rural capitalists while under a contemporary urgent climate crisis. 

Holy Cow aims to show the history behind our ancestral alimentary habits and the possible choices for a fragile future.