Thomas Francia

The fashion industry is often cited as the second most polluting industry globally. According to the UN, it consumes about 93 billion cubic meters of water annually—enough to meet the needs of five million people—and emits more carbon than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Today, we buy three times more clothes than in the 1960s, and much of it is made from polyester, a plastic derived from fossil fuels. Polyester, now found in over half of all clothing, contributes significantly to environmental degradation, producing around half a million tons of microfibers annually, which pollute our oceans.

"The Green Wire" project seeks to document and share the stories of emerging green technologies in the fashion industry that offer sustainable alternatives to traditional practices. I began this journey in Italy, the heart of high fashion, where a Sicilian company is pioneering a bio-based material made from the waste of prickly pear cacti and oranges. This material rivals traditional leather in quality but has a much lower environmental impact. Unlike other crops, prickly pear requires minimal water and thrives in high temperatures, making this production method far more sustainable than animal leather, which is water-intensive.

The creation process starts in Sicily, where by-products from the food and cosmetics industries are processed. These materials are then transformed into a liquid biopolymer and spread on a fabric base in Como, resulting in bio-based leather suitable for high fashion, furniture, and the automotive industry. Unlike conventional leathers, this material does not involve harmful chemicals like chromium or release microplastics, and it reduces carbon emissions by 90%.

Next, I went to Spain, where I documented a company that has been a leader in sustainable materials since 1947. Their technology recycles textile waste—like industrial scraps and used garments—into high-quality fibers, closing the loop on fashion with minimal use of water and solvents. The process involves collecting textile waste, removing non-textile elements, and shredding the material to be reused in new garments. Their proprietary system even creates fibers that are ready to be spun without the need for dyeing, aligning with market trends and minimizing waste.

This project aims to raise awareness about the environmental impact of fashion and promote sustainable alternatives. The fashion industry is undergoing a radical transformation, driven by innovation and a commitment to sustainability. As consumers become more informed, the shift away from fast fashion towards transparent and eco-friendly production methods is becoming inevitable.