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An ode to the ancient weaving community - 2024
Copyright Mouhamed Moustapha 2024
Updated May 2024
Location Tamilnadu
Topics Documentary, Editorial, Photography, Tamilnadu, Weavers

Digital Empowerment Foundation (DEF) NGO Assignment

Nestled in the heart of Tamil Nadu, Salem District carries a legacy woven into its very name. Derived from "Salya," an ode to the ancient weaving community, Salem stands tall as one of Tamil Nadu's premier hubs for silk sarees. This storied tradition of craftsmanship and artistry culminated in 2006 when Salem silk sarees earned the prestigious GI Tag, a testament to their unparalleled quality and heritage.

At the heart of Salem's textile heritage lies a meticulous process, where each thread tells a tale of dedication and skill. Both silk and cotton silk sarees grace the looms, each intricately woven with the added flourish of Zari work, a signature of Salem's craftsmanship. The Vanniyar community is deeply entrenched in the art of weaving.

The journey of a Salem silk saree begins with the delicate art of warping. Yarn, carefully selected and dyed in vibrant hues, undergoes meticulous preparation before being woven into the fabric of tradition. Artisanal communities meticulously craft bamboo reeds, shaping the very foundation of the loom that breathes life into each saree. Heald making follows suit, as silk yarn is twisted into leases and meticulously inserted into the loom, laying the groundwork for the intricate patterns to come.

Piecing together the warp ends is a labor of love, often undertaken by seasoned hands, while the addition of leases marks the transition from street to loom. The loom itself, a testament to local craftsmanship, stands as a beacon of tradition, its raised pit designs a nod to centuries of weaving expertise. As weft yarn is wound and woven into the fabric, each thread finds its place in the intricate tapestry of Salem silk sarees.

Deep borders adorned with intricate weaves and motifs, pallus resplendent with korai, Tippu, and temple designs - each element speaks to Salem's rich artistic heritage.

But Salem's textile legacy extends beyond silk sarees alone. The term "Salem fabric" encompasses a diverse range of cotton textiles, each bearing the hallmark of the region's unique weaving techniques.

As the sun sets on another day in Salem, the legacy of silk sarees continues to thrive, woven into the fabric of everyday life!

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An ode to the ancient weaving community - 2024 by Mouhamed Moustapha
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