Pavel's Backerei by Theresa Soares

Paul Wainscoat shares a laugh w...icult, and time is running out.

Paul Wainscoat shares a laugh with his wife, Johanna Wainscoat, as they prepare bread dough at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on Wednesday evening, March 27, 2024. With plans to retire when their lease ends in November 2027, the couple hopes to find a successor to carry on the bakery’s legacy. Paul envisions someone who grew up in the business, understands the dedication quality baking demands, and is committed to preserving what he and Johanna have built. However, the search has proven difficult, and time is running out.

Paul and Johanna Wainscoat are the beloved owners of Pavel’s Backerei, a European-style bakery in the coastal town of Pacific Grove, Calif. Since opening in 1991, the bakery has become a cherished institution, attracting patrons from across the Bay Area and tourists from around the world. As the couple reflects on Paul’s recent health scare and prepares for retirement in November 2027, this story highlights their remarkable journey, European influences, deep ties to the Bay Area, and the lasting impact of their dedication to their craft and community.

Johanna prepares dough as Paul ...vel’s Backerei today.

Johanna prepares dough as Paul works in the background at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on March 27, 2024. Married in 2008, the couple runs the bakery with a flow honed over years of working side by side, rooted in European baking traditions. Paul grew up in a family of 16 children, deeply immersed in the world of baking. His father purchased their first bakery on Geneva Avenue near the Cow Palace in San Francisco in 1955 and later expanded to locations on Ocean View Boulevard in San Francisco, as well as in Tahoe, Santa Cruz, and Felton. Each summer, European bakers boarded with Paul’s family, bringing expertise from countries like France, Germany, and Italy to their family bakeries. These experiences instilled in Paul a deep respect for time-honored baking techniques that continue to shape Pavel’s Backerei today.

Paul carefully weighs a batch o...Grove Market across the street.

Paul carefully weighs a batch of farmer bread dough at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on March 28, 2024. The bread, made with whole wheat flour, white gluten flour, a 9-grain mix, and a blend of sesame, sunflower, and poppy seeds, is known for its hearty texture and honey-rich crust, making it a customer favorite. Each Saturday, the bakery produces 120 loaves of farmer bread, with additional loaves made for Grove Market across the street.

Paul and Johanna work side by ... the courtyard of their hotel.

Paul and Johanna work side by side at the bakery bench at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on March 27, 2024. Paul’s early memories of his parents working together in their family bakeries shaped his understanding of partnership, a value that defines his marriage to Johanna and their shared dedication to the bakery. Their own partnership began in 2007 and culminated in a wedding in Cortona, Italy, the picturesque town featured in the film Under the Tuscan Sun. As they walked to City Hall to exchange vows, local merchants stepped outside to clap for them. The celebration continued with a dinner at a winery, where, at dusk, a falcon soared over the vineyards before returning to the courtyard of their hotel.

Paul rolls out dough at Pavel&a...d institution in Pacific Grove.

Paul rolls out dough at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on March 28, 2024, as a San Francisco Giants vs. San Diego Padres baseball game plays on a TV in the background. A lifelong Bay Area sports fan and former basketball player, Paul once played one-on-one against Golden State Warriors guard Phil Smith during a basketball camp at Sonoma State. The camp was run by Bob Gaillard, Smith’s former college coach at the University of San Francisco. Paul, a junior in high school at the time, shared jersey number 20 with Smith—a detail that left a lasting impression and reflected the discipline and dedication that Paul carries into his work at the bakery.

Paul’s connection to Pacific Grove began years earlier when, as a freshman at Santa Cruz High School, he traveled with his football team to play Pacific Grove High. Driving down Lighthouse Avenue, Paul remembers thinking, “Man, I want to put a bakery in this town.” His fondness for the area grew stronger during visits to Scotch Bakery, a shop reminiscent of his father’s bakeries, where he often picked up butterscotch cookies with chocolate dollops. Those early impressions, combined with his upbringing in the baking world, helped inspire the creation of Pavel’s Backerei, now a beloved institution in Pacific Grove.

Johanna Wainscoat, co-owner of ...reflects her disciplined touch.

Johanna Wainscoat, co-owner of Pavel’s Backerei, smiles as she works in the bakery on March 28, 2024. Born in San Leandro, Calif., Johanna began taking dance lessons at 8 years old and fell in love with ballet after her mother took her and her sister to see The Nutcracker in Oakland. She trained locally, joining the Oakland Metropolitan Ballet before being hired as an apprentice with the Oakland Ballet at age 14. From 1972 to 1982, she danced with the Oakland Ballet, performing lead roles like The Sisters under the guidance of Eugene Lorring, with a six-month break to perform with the larger San Francisco Ballet. Johanna also apprenticed with the American Ballet Theatre, where she took classes with Mikhail Baryshnikov, and worked with renowned figures like Léonide Massine, who starred in The Red Shoes, and Bronislava Nijinska, the niece of Vaslav Nijinsky, a legendary figure in ballet known for his groundbreaking choreography and electrifying performances during the early 20th century. Today, she brings the same artistry she cultivated from her years of intense ballet training to the bakery, where every loaf and pastry reflects her disciplined touch.

Johanna carefully preps ham and... and dedication to their craft.

Johanna carefully preps ham and cheese croissant sandwiches at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. After retiring from ballet, Johanna transitioned into hairstyling, a natural progression after years of doing hair and makeup for performances. Both ballet and hairstyling are physically demanding in different ways, requiring stamina, precision, and an unwavering attention to creative detail and technique. These qualities mirrored the discipline and focus instilled in Paul through the intense coaching he received as a college athlete, aligning their shared values and dedication to their craft.

Paul arranges racks of dough a...e bakery's operations.

Paul arranges racks of dough at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on March 27, 2024. Careful preparation ensures the dough is ready for baking in the days ahead, reflecting the planning and precision behind the bakery's operations.

Paul checks the dough&rsquo...h loaf with precision and care.

Paul checks the dough’s readiness at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. “The dough will speak to you when it’s ready,” an Italian baker once told Paul, advice he reflects on as he prepares each loaf with precision and care.

Freshly baked cinnamon swirl lo...rench toast on Sunday mornings.

Freshly baked cinnamon swirl loaves rest on cooling racks at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. Made from a buttery dough and rolled into a log shape, the bakery’s signature cinnamon bread is baked fresh the morning of its one-day opening for customers. Known for its rich cinnamon spirals and golden crust, it’s a popular choice for making French toast on Sunday mornings.

In the early morning hours at P...tes items for the display case.

In the early morning hours at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024, Paul prepares baked goods after starting his shift at 2 a.m. to ensure everything is ready for the bakery’s one-day-a-week opening. In the foreground, Johanna plates items for the display case.

Powdered sugar is sifted over c...ove, Calif., on April 20, 2024.

Powdered sugar is sifted over cream cheese tart danishes by Paul at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024.

Paul glazes almond bear claws ...efined the bakery for decades.

Paul glazes almond bear claws at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. Each pastry reflects techniques Paul learned from European bakers who boarded with his family as he grew up in the bakery business, showcasing the precision and craftsmanship that have defined the bakery for decades.

Johanna reviews the bakery&...oming together before showtime.

Johanna reviews the bakery’s inventory in the early morning hours on April 20, 2024, as the clock nears the 7 a.m. opening. The morning routine includes accounting for preorders, arranging displays, and preparing for the day—a shuffling of tasks that resembles a performance coming together before showtime.

At dawn, as light begins to cre... beloved part of the community.

At dawn, as light begins to creep across the storefront, a line forms outside Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. Patrons, some arriving as early as 6 a.m., wait patiently for the bakery’s one-day opening, a testament to its reputation for quality, uniqueness, and affordability. The sign on the door displays a heartfelt letter from Paul and Johanna, explaining the circumstances behind the bakery’s limited hours:

"On a recent Saturday after a 14-hour shift starting at 2 a.m., I had a health scare. Fortunately, it was a warning, but feeling paralysis in my right leg, I got the message. With that being said, PAVEL’S will be Open every Saturday from 7 a.m. until 4 p.m. We have made adjustments to up the production and have added more front-of-the-house staff to make the line move faster. Think of it as Pavel’s in-store farmers market. See you Saturday!"

The bakery's history is marked by relentless dedication, with Paul recalling his father’s stroke in 1966 after a 24-hour shift. Even now, the family’s devotion to their craft draws loyal customers, who eagerly wait in line for the goods that have become a beloved part of the community.

Paul and Johanna chat with a c...y accessible to the community.

Paul and Johanna chat with a customer outside Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on June 8, 2024. Paul’s father often said, “The more good bakeries in town, the better it is for your business. It makes the town bakery conscious—everyone will find their favorite bakery.” Guided by this philosophy, Paul has always prioritized affordability, striving to serve more people at a lower cost rather than fewer people at higher prices. Known for their reasonable prices, Paul and Johanna credit their hands-on work for keeping costs low and their bakery accessible to the community.

Paul scores a loaf of Farmer b...g their kids eat it like cake.

Paul scores a loaf of Farmer bread at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024. The bread’s darker brown color comes from honey, and it features a mix of whole wheat and white flour, coated in a nine-grain blend with sesame, sunflower, and poppy seeds. Developed by Paul when he worked at the family bakery in Lake Tahoe, the bread is a customer favorite, with some saying their kids eat it like cake.

Paul cleans the bench at Pavel&...steadfast rhythms of his craft.

Paul cleans the bench at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., in the pre-dawn hours of May 25, 2024, just a few hours before the bakery opens for the day. For Paul, the bench is more than a workspace—it’s a symbol of resilience and belonging. He remembers asking his father during a difficult time in high school, when the family bakery in Felton was struggling and they considered selling the house where they had raised their 16 children, “How did you know we’d make it?” His father replied, “I didn’t, but I did what I knew—I showed up at the bench every morning.”

That simple yet profound advice has carried Paul through some of life’s toughest challenges, including two divorces and moments of uncertainty about his place in the world. No matter how difficult things became, the bakery bench was always a constant, a place where he felt grounded and where everything made sense. For Paul, showing up at the bench represents more than just work—it’s an enduring testament to commitment, devotion, and finding purpose in the steadfast rhythms of his craft.

Paul tops Mixed berry and cream...epared fresh for sale that day.

Paul tops Mixed berry and cream cheese danishes at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on the morning of May 25, 2024. Prepared fresh for sale that day.

Paul maneuvers a hot baking rac... bakery’s croissants.

Paul maneuvers a hot baking rack on April 20, 2024, as the ovens work behind him, keeping pace with the morning’s production. Johanna describes him as a “whirling dervish” during the busiest hours preparing for the public. The bakery’s Chocolate croissants are a customer favorite, each cut, filled, and rolled with a French ganache made from heated whipping cream and melted dark chocolate, with additional dark chocolate pieces added. Bear claws are also a popular choice. Paul’s friend Gordon Bitler recalls growing up with chocolate stains on his shirts from the bakery’s croissants.

An employee places the &quo...s the bakery nears its opening.

An employee places the "Bakery Open" sign outside at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024, as customers gather outside, chatting as the bakery nears its opening.

Johanna rings up a customer at ...s renowned breads and pastries.

Johanna rings up a customer at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on April 20, 2024, as another patron selects their order from the bakery’s display of freshly baked goods. Open only one day a week, the bakery hums with activity as loyal customers line up for a chance to bring home its renowned breads and pastries.

Freshly baked loaves, including...rioche dough remains unchanged.

Freshly baked loaves, including (from left) a sourdough round, a compagna, a farmer bread, and a ciabatta, sit on the bakery bench at Pavel’s Backerei in Pacific Grove, Calif., on June 8, 2024. Beneath them are pages from Paul Wainscoat’s leather-bound recipe book, which once caught fire. While Paul has modified many recipes over the years, his father’s original brioche dough remains unchanged.

Johanna picks fresh lettuce fro...sisting Johanna in the kitchen.

Johanna picks fresh lettuce from the garden at their Carmel Valley home on May 26, 2024. The greens will be used for a mixed green salad prepared for a family gathering in the garden, where homemade pizza will be served. Outside the bakery, Paul and Johanna share a love of cooking together at home, with Paul often assisting Johanna in the kitchen.

Paul and Johanna enjoy wine wit...amwork into an unspoken rhythm.

Paul and Johanna enjoy wine with their daughters while preparing toppings for homemade pizzas in their Carmel Valley kitchen on Sunday, May 26, 2024. At home, the couple’s love of cooking together mirrors the seamless flow they share at the bakery, where years of collaboration have honed their teamwork into an unspoken rhythm.

Paul and Johanna share a meal w...ve shaped their lives and work.

Paul and Johanna share a meal with their children and grandchildren in the garden of their Carmel Valley home on May 26, 2024. As their bakery’s legacy nears its end, the gathering reflects the enduring bonds of family and community that have shaped their lives and work.

Photographer Theresa Soares
Writer Theresa Soares
Photo Editor Caroline E. Couig
Special Thanks National Press Photographers Association

Theresa Soares

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